November 20th, 2012, 23:51 | #31 | |
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November 21st, 2012, 00:00 | #32 | |
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Ok enough side tracking BRSM! Last edited by wildcard; November 21st, 2012 at 00:02.. |
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November 21st, 2012, 00:28 | #33 | |
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if you're only getting 460 in an aeg and 488fps with a p*, you're not trying hard enough: That crack is addictive......... - YouTube back on topic: g&p guns are fantastic. they do need work out of the box, but for tinkerers it doesn't really matter because we (I) can fix a gearbox, but I don't have the facilities to make my own receivers. maybe only $100 of parts (gears, piston, mosfet, sorbo pad), a little effort put into learning (reshimming via bevel method), and your shiny (or matte) new g&p will last longer than most people are interested in running around with a bunch of other fat dudes in a field.
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November 21st, 2012, 00:32 | #34 | |
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November 21st, 2012, 00:53 | #35 | |
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the weight of a BB is next to irrelevant in a p*. given the correct settings, air rig and a proper length barrel, the fps of a .2 and a .66 will be the same. similar to overvoluming a short barrelled AEG, there are a few people who do it so that they chrono at the field limit (usually indoors, so 350 or so) with .2g, but they use .28/.30+, and the end result is that the heavier round will still have a similar fps to the .2 given that a p* effectively has unlimited volume (unlike an aeg), you're simply not setting it correctly, or your barrel isn't long enough to allow enough gas expansion to accelerate the round properly. and of course .12 won't do sh*t. I'm just saying, if you believe that HS5's 700@35 or 1200fps rifles were done with .12g rounds, then it's not nearly as difficult as I think it is because my rifle will do that as well. they're also definitely M4s. I'd also like to see my rifle gamed over a season or more without maintenance on .28-.32 rounds, because it should have about 250 feet of range (if I did my r-hop install correctly this time). unfortunately, it wasn't finished until last month and will likely not be fielded for a long time because a: I'm broke and b: chronic back pain. edit: also if it takes an m170 to get 460fps, you've got a SIGNIFICANT air leak. that should only take an m130.
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November 21st, 2012, 01:08 | #36 | |
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November 21st, 2012, 01:34 | #37 | |
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my quip about .12g rounds was clearly meant as comedy. I'm not an expert on p* guns, but with a setup like that you should be able to get nearly 800fps. unfortunately, ASM is currently down so I wouldn't be able to point you at somebody more knowledgeable. also, I can respect tinkering/experimenting at an early stage of technology. all the issues you've described would be cake to fix nowadays, because other people kept pushing the limits long after you and everybody else settled into a comfort zone.
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November 21st, 2012, 02:09 | #38 | |
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November 21st, 2012, 03:12 | #39 |
you definitely need to adjust the fcu settings, not just the rig psi.
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November 21st, 2012, 10:30 | #40 |
"bb bukakke" KING!
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an honorable mention from maciekA.... it makes me all warm and fuzzy inside (*ยดω`*)
I personally don't think 30-35 rps is particularly hard to acheive.. both my primaries sit at 30-33 rps, and they are limited to more rps due to the simple fact that I have heavy piston assemblies. To increase it further, I would have to look at dropping more weight off the assembly by customizing the piston bodies. (swiss cheesing) This probably would increase the battery efficiency as well.. but the formula is not hard and quite affordable before anyone says systemasystema. in reality there are only 3 major parts you really need to worry about to approach the 30 rps mark. a 16:1 or lower gearset... a neodymium magnet motor (shs, lonex, jg blue, etc) and an 11.1v lipo with at least 20c discharge... more C = more rps. By my count if you shop the right places, should cost you <100$ before shipping. I'm not counting a mosfet because a simple polyfuse fet is something I believe should come in EVERY factory gun. It just doesn't make sense not to... it's another 10-15$ in parts that will stop the need to fix burned out or melted trigger contacts. The rest is really taking your time to shim and a 5$ piece of sorbo. There are guys that use non metal rack pistons to achieve 30 rps reliably, and it all comes down to your AoE adjustment. If you really wanted to be comfortable, you could get an shs 15 tooth piston for another 10$ and do the dremel or file work yourself to get it down to 14 teeth. There's no secret, just doing the research on the reputable tech sites out there will give you the answers you need and then taking the time to set up. I keep wanting to open up another one of my guns and see how far I can push my own limits and ability to build something super stupid. I have a bunch of reliable guns under my bench just waiting to play, and I'd rather play than tinker. But I'm extremely confident I can get my p90 to 32 maybe 33 rps with some more work, and my g36 to 40.. it's sitting at 33 right now... and the only thing I would need to do is some finer sanding/filing work and weight reduction on the piston body... maybe switch out to a lighter piston head. I think there's guys out there with a piston assembly 1/3 the weight of mine. That's just insanity. I'm not that interested in eeking out that last 5-10% of performance. I should open up the gearbox I bought off asm and show you guys the swiss cheesed piston the tech put in there... there's nothing left of it o_o |
November 21st, 2012, 11:07 | #41 |
Mr. Silencer
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Back on topic.
Yes I've noticed everything that HKGhost and Maciek has mentioned about G&P mechboxes. My personal gripes (may also be highlighting what the fine gentlemen above have already said) * Silicone wiring that has very thick jackets, making it very hard to snake through tight spaces. Also strips very easily * The ring terminals - forces you to use a G&P motor, which are all junk. (yes even their M170 motors) * Factory shimming is often too loose * Gears tend to just explode for no reason * M120 "high-speed" motors in 400fps guns - why? * Upper and lower receivers not fitting correctly - this happened on a gun that Huang (airsoftdepot) brought in. There's about a .75mm gap between the upper and lower. Yeah... * G&P receiver threads - seriously. What the fuck?? Why can't they just use normal AEG threading like the rest of the airsoft world? * G&P outer barrels - 14mm CLOCKWISE. WHY? I don't buy G&P guns anymore, I just buy their bodies, and only the ones that G&P make (Magpul or their MUR-1 upper). Otherwise I find myself turning to VFC. Last edited by Stealth; November 21st, 2012 at 11:10.. |
November 21st, 2012, 11:10 | #42 |
lurkingknight, you mentioned "reputable tech sites"...which ones do you recommend?
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November 21st, 2012, 11:19 | #43 |
G&P are good quality M4 for the price but I prefer Classic Army Proline X-series or VFC (DX).
Last edited by Warlock; November 21st, 2012 at 11:24.. |
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November 21st, 2012, 11:20 | #44 |
Mr. Silencer
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November 21st, 2012, 11:22 | #45 |
"bb bukakke" KING!
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I live on the forums of airsoftmechanics.com Everything I've learned about teching since I started playing last year is pretty much entirely from that site, and I'm sure the most if not all of the knowledgeable techheads that have spoken up in this thread have been lurking there for quite some time.
Last edited by lurkingknight; November 21st, 2012 at 11:25.. |
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