ICS connections

sundae_1021 · January 30th, 2011, 21:57

Hi, I have a problem with my ICS M4. I put the level of the motor up to its highest position, then I tried to fire a shot, 1st semi, it didn't fire even 1 shot. And I think, my battery was dead, then I charged it, and the 2nd time I tried, I put it in full auto. I saw a spark, on the chip, and I disconnect the battery immediately. And the voltage of the battery burned it.

So, I want to ask if, the chip was burned, is there any internal wiring or the motor was burned too?

What would be the best solution?

Darnok · January 30th, 2011, 22:26

Well Im a airsoft noob and dont even own a gun but from the picture it looks like a simple fuse. Its job is to actualy burn out so that the current is stoped from rushing into the motor where it could cause more dmg. Just replace the fuse with the same rating, dont stick a higher rated fuse.

And if its not a fuse than ignore everything I said.

R.I.T.Z · January 30th, 2011, 22:28

it looks like an automotive fuse.
try removing it and connecting those two bare metal ends together. it should work then

HKGhost · January 30th, 2011, 22:30

the fuse burnt due to 1. because the motor height was too high, it caused too much resistance and popped the fuse. 2. there is a short in the wiring that caused the short. Change the fuse and retry firing the gun. If the fuse pop again, you could have a short in your system or the motor is crapped.

diamond_SEA · January 30th, 2011, 22:37

replace the fuse, then, without connecting the battery, use a continuity meter on the plug on the gun. It should read no connection. Pull the trigger, then it should read some level of continuity. If it goes off without the trigger being pulled, you've got a short in the wiring. That'll require a breakdown to find the source of the short.

If you dont have a short, back off that motor adjustment. No motor should be that high. You could have the motor pressed up too high, causing a jam, and thus a motor burnout. Test it by pulling the motor out of the grip, then connecting the wires, the battery, and pulling the trigger. If the motor spins, the motor is fine and you can reinstall it with the motor backed off. If it doesnt spin, your motor is fried.

Thats my 2 cents. give it a try.

Sportco · January 30th, 2011, 22:54

Yeap.... a jammed motor turns into a heater (toaster basicly) and amp go up and blow the fuse...

Motor is probably OK

1) replace the fuse (with same amperage)
2) Lower you motor (Adjust your motor YouTube - Echo1USA Tech Video - Motor Height Adjustment
3) Test fire lower gearbox only ((It will probably work))

((resist testing with no fuse... or if the problem is elsewhere you can frye some components including motor))

Come back if that doesnt work...

diamond_SEA is right about testing the wires (and switch) I was wondering if it would be better to test ground and positive seperately at battery and motor terminals, so if you fryed you motor you will know the problem is there right away (if all else works)
Cheer

Ps you can get that fuse a most self service gas station

sundae_1021 · January 30th, 2011, 22:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by HKGhost

the fuse burnt due to 1. because the motor height was too high, it caused too much resistance and popped the fuse. 2. there is a short in the wiring that caused the short. Change the fuse and retry firing the gun. If the fuse pop again, you could have a short in your system or the motor is crapped.

Yeah, I'm thinking that I put the motor to its highest position and the motor was unable to turn the gears.. its like you're forcing something to fit, and it reach the breaking point. I don't know. I'm not expert in wirings and some electrical stuffs...

sundae_1021 · January 30th, 2011, 22:59

I'll try to test it without a fuse..

just a thought, the mosfet can substitute this fuse?

sundae_1021 · January 30th, 2011, 23:04

sweet, nothing was fried up inside the lower gearbox or the motor... I can connect it directly without the fuse...

Sportco · January 30th, 2011, 23:12

You realize that had this event happend without a fuse...

1) you motor would be toast
2) your switch would probably be damaged

and now you going fuseless 120 minutes later...

are you sure you want to do this?

Cheers

sundae_1021 · January 31st, 2011, 00:17

I don't want to risk my motor and some parts of it.. I am currently looking for a 30A fuse blade..

But, how about to those brands who don't have a fuse like this.. like A&K.. it is directly connected to the switch.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sportco

You realize that had this event happend without a fuse...

1) you motor would be toast
2) your switch would probably be damaged

and now you going fuseless 120 minutes later...

are you sure you want to do this?

Cheers

HKGhost · January 31st, 2011, 00:31

a fuse is there for your protection if you don't know what you're doing. I've never ran a fuse in any of my guns and never had a problem. I can tell if there is a problem before it causes a problem. Since you're not sure, it's better to have the fuse then to blowing up your motor or worst.

sundae_1021 · January 31st, 2011, 00:42

This is my 2nd AEG, my 1st AEG doesn't have a fuse.. and I also run a lipo on that gun, but I don't have any problems.

I'm not sure if ICS brands really needs a fuse or what.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HKGhost

a fuse is there for your protection if you don't know what you're doing. I've never ran a fuse in any of my guns and never had a problem. I can tell if there is a problem before it causes a problem. Since you're not sure, it's better to have the fuse then to blowing up your motor or worst.

HKGhost · January 31st, 2011, 00:49

AEGs don't really need a fuse but it's good to have if you're unsure with problems. Removing the fuse also bump the ROF up a bit. Just be aware that if you have an electrical problem, you have no protection.

Sportco · January 31st, 2011, 09:18

The need for electrical circuit protection isn't related to Brand, it's related to experimenting with your AEG ((including fiddling around with the ajustment screws, first time teardowns, home repairs, mod's and upgrades ) Anything that throws a variable in the équation...

I compare this to the guys who rechip there cars to remove the rev limiter on the engine... sure they will brag... tell you how much faster and better there car is now... right to the point where they start burning oil 5000 klicks later..

Test pilot wear a parachute and airline pilot don't... there is a reason for that!!

Hey HKGhost question for you, since he's using a lipo will he actually see a difference in ROF.

My understanding was that NIMH have limited maximum output therefore any resistance in the circuit (like a fuse) would reduce rate of fire, but lipo's can dump S**t loads of current and there is no actual benefit to removing the fuse... ((unless you have space issues.. rare with lipo's))

To the contrary because of that... in case of trouble the lipo has the hability to frye your motor in a snap...

So if you remove the fuse... anything happens you got to stop immediately and do diagnostic without really using the AEG because you don't end up with a burnt fuse, you end up with a burnt motor

Any misunderstanding on my part?

Cheers

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January 30th, 2011, 21:57	#1
sundae_1021 Trader rating Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Vancouver BC	ICS connections Hi, I have a problem with my ICS M4. I put the level of the motor up to its highest position, then I tried to fire a shot, 1st semi, it didn't fire even 1 shot. And I think, my battery was dead, then I charged it, and the 2nd time I tried, I put it in full auto. I saw a spark, on the chip, and I disconnect the battery immediately. And the voltage of the battery burned it. So, I want to ask if, the chip was burned, is there any internal wiring or the motor was burned too? What would be the best solution? __________________ MAGDALO HATERS GONNA HATE

January 30th, 2011, 22:26	#2
Darnok Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Mississauga, ON	Noob awncering questions lol Well Im a airsoft noob and dont even own a gun but from the picture it looks like a simple fuse. Its job is to actualy burn out so that the current is stoped from rushing into the motor where it could cause more dmg. Just replace the fuse with the same rating, dont stick a higher rated fuse. And if its not a fuse than ignore everything I said.

January 30th, 2011, 22:30	#4
HKGhost Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Mississauga, ON	the fuse burnt due to 1. because the motor height was too high, it caused too much resistance and popped the fuse. 2. there is a short in the wiring that caused the short. Change the fuse and retry firing the gun. If the fuse pop again, you could have a short in your system or the motor is crapped. __________________ Please email me as I'm not on ASC too often. Custom Build \| Upgrades \| Repairs \| Maintenance Contact: ghostgunwork@gmail.com / Private Message

January 30th, 2011, 22:28	#3
R.I.T.Z Crackers Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: The Shwa	it looks like an automotive fuse. try removing it and connecting those two bare metal ends together. it should work then

January 30th, 2011, 22:54	#6
Sportco would-be wine thief Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: St-Hilaire	Yeap.... a jammed motor turns into a heater (toaster basicly) and amp go up and blow the fuse... Motor is probably OK 1) replace the fuse (with same amperage) 2) Lower you motor (Adjust your motor YouTube - Echo1USA Tech Video - Motor Height Adjustment 3) Test fire lower gearbox only ((It will probably work)) ((resist testing with no fuse... or if the problem is elsewhere you can frye some components including motor)) Come back if that doesnt work... diamond_SEA is right about testing the wires (and switch) I was wondering if it would be better to test ground and positive seperately at battery and motor terminals, so if you fryed you motor you will know the problem is there right away (if all else works) Cheer Ps you can get that fuse a most self service gas station __________________ Level 3 Directory assistance operator Level 1 skapegoat It ain't the years, it's the miles. Last edited by Sportco; January 30th, 2011 at 23:00..

January 30th, 2011, 22:59	#8
sundae_1021 Trader rating Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Vancouver BC	I'll try to test it without a fuse.. just a thought, the mosfet can substitute this fuse? __________________ MAGDALO HATERS GONNA HATE

January 30th, 2011, 23:04	#9
sundae_1021 Trader rating Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Vancouver BC	sweet, nothing was fried up inside the lower gearbox or the motor... I can connect it directly without the fuse... __________________ MAGDALO HATERS GONNA HATE

January 30th, 2011, 23:12	#10
Sportco would-be wine thief Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: St-Hilaire	You realize that had this event happend without a fuse... 1) you motor would be toast 2) your switch would probably be damaged and now you going fuseless 120 minutes later... are you sure you want to do this? Cheers __________________ Level 3 Directory assistance operator Level 1 skapegoat It ain't the years, it's the miles. Last edited by Sportco; January 30th, 2011 at 23:17..

January 31st, 2011, 00:31	#12
HKGhost Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Mississauga, ON	a fuse is there for your protection if you don't know what you're doing. I've never ran a fuse in any of my guns and never had a problem. I can tell if there is a problem before it causes a problem. Since you're not sure, it's better to have the fuse then to blowing up your motor or worst. __________________ Please email me as I'm not on ASC too often. Custom Build \| Upgrades \| Repairs \| Maintenance Contact: ghostgunwork@gmail.com / Private Message

January 31st, 2011, 00:49	#14
HKGhost Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Mississauga, ON	AEGs don't really need a fuse but it's good to have if you're unsure with problems. Removing the fuse also bump the ROF up a bit. Just be aware that if you have an electrical problem, you have no protection. __________________ Please email me as I'm not on ASC too often. Custom Build \| Upgrades \| Repairs \| Maintenance Contact: ghostgunwork@gmail.com / Private Message

January 31st, 2011, 09:18	#15
Sportco would-be wine thief Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: St-Hilaire	The need for electrical circuit protection isn't related to Brand, it's related to experimenting with your AEG ((including fiddling around with the ajustment screws, first time teardowns, home repairs, mod's and upgrades ) Anything that throws a variable in the équation... I compare this to the guys who rechip there cars to remove the rev limiter on the engine... sure they will brag... tell you how much faster and better there car is now... right to the point where they start burning oil 5000 klicks later.. Test pilot wear a parachute and airline pilot don't... there is a reason for that!! Hey HKGhost question for you, since he's using a lipo will he actually see a difference in ROF. My understanding was that NIMH have limited maximum output therefore any resistance in the circuit (like a fuse) would reduce rate of fire, but lipo's can dump St loads of current and there is no actual benefit to removing the fuse... ((unless you have space issues.. rare with lipo's)) To the contrary because of that... in case of trouble the lipo has the hability to frye your motor in a snap... So if you remove the fuse... anything happens you got to stop immediately and do diagnostic without really using the AEG because you don't end up with a burnt fuse, you end up with a burnt motor Any misunderstanding on my part? Cheers __________________ Level 3 Directory assistance operator Level 1** skapegoat It ain't the years, it's the miles. Last edited by Sportco; January 31st, 2011 at 09:38..

ICS connections

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