[LUTNIT]

I sometimes use a screwdriver to turn the gears until it "fires."
Other times if I can't get to the anti-reversal I just open the mechbox anyway. I have opened at least a dozen mechboxes with half to fully compressed springs, its not too hard to hold on.

As for batteries...all batteries drain over time even when left full. Best way to store them long term (3 months or more) is to charge them to 60-80% and put them in the fridge (NOT the freezer.) Also totally draining batteries is sometimes known as dead shorting them, this is bad for a battery REGARDLESS of type. Most little dischargers totally kill batteries, this is horrible for them, you want to use a computer controlled discharger that doesn't drop the voltage below 0.9V/cell for NiMh or NiCd, 3V/cell for LiPo. NiCd packs should NOT be discharged before charging each time and again should NOT be discharged until totally dead. Discharging it to 0.9V/cell every 2-3 charges is healthy. On that note NiMh packs should be discharged (again, to no lower than 0.9V/cell) once every 20-30 charges (or once or twice a season, depending on how often you play.)

On the note of anti-reversal I have worked on several guns where the anti-reversal had been shimmed so it was moderately loose but not totally stiff. This resulted in the gun randomly unwinding a couple teeth on the sector gear after a full auto burst. To get it to stay in place when it wants to jump out I use some thick grease to hold it in place. I use white lithium grease from Canadian Tire for all gun work and it works fairly well but isn't so thick it will cause it to gum up (but the spray can of white lithium grease I have does.)

When a trigger keeps popping out it usually means the wires under it from the trigger switch are not flat or the trigger spring is not pressed down to the bottom of the mechbox shell enough. I have never had a trigger pop out of a ver.2 after checking those two things, ver.3 on the other hand...