Quote:
Originally Posted by MaciekA
Interesting ideas.
I wonder where the heat is causing the power drop though, since the Curie temperature for rare earth magnets is extraordinarily high (even neo magnets for example, which have among the lowest Curie temperature, don't start to lose magnetism until they're between 300-400 Celcius). For airsoft applications, these would be very high temperatures. Do you think it's in the wiring somewhere maybe?
Also, I like theory #2, mainly because I've seen so many weak-sauce batteries out there. One way to be sure is get a nice big R/C battery with a high C value, say, 7.4V 5000mAh and 40C, and hook it up to this gun. The problem though, is that it might mask another issue by powering through whatever real problem lies beneath.
edit: Just noticed you suggested the same thing. Shame on me for not reading your whole reply.
|
Tsk, tsk...shame...LOL JK.
I've had more than a few motors over the years come across the bench that seemed ok, but just didn't handle as expected under load. (IMO)...once a motor is heated past it's operating thresholds it is weakend and needs to "work harder", requiring more power, than before to accomplish the same tasks. This further tasks and compounds issues with a marginal system. Simplest thing to do is to just pin it down to the motor and chuck it.
I've also had the odd motor that seemed to work sort of...but couldn't sustain long strings of shots (in multiple setups/batteries). I suspect that it had to do with a fault in the motor that worked when it was cooled and then failed as the wiring heated. Those would just stop dead though and not slow down as described.
Re. just putting a "BIG" battery to it...yes, I think that it would really only serve to mask other issues. Unless you're running a very powerful setup you shouldn't need more than a regular large battery to cycle a mechbox.
Re. wiring...yes certainly. Some setups have come across the bench with poor joints/splices that just starved off the motor. I think the record I've seen was one that had 7 splices in one wire...and only 2 were soldered!!! Kinks/nicks/pinches/shitty wiring will starve the system. Poorly attached connectors, poorly done splices and poor soldering jobs at the switch will do the same. Wire that is tired should be replaced...the wire is probably oxidized/corroded in it's sheathing. Connectors need to all be soldered...splices should be avoided...all wiring should be insulated...all solder joints should be able to withstand a tug just shy of hard enough to bend/break what it's attached to. Wiring should be a MINIMUM of 18AWG solid strand (not solid core, but it should not be braided) copper wire...or good quality high efficiency "silver" wire (warning...there's crappy "clone" silver wire out there). If find the silver wire to be a pain sometimes with soldering...and actually prefer copper wire. The thing "standard" wiring used in so many AEGs was ok (not nice, but ok) for old stock guns when you were pushing m90/100 stock springs with a 8.4v mini....that's not the stock builds now but the wiring hasn't changed. ACM type companies just shitty solder too and it's not uncommon to have wiring simply pull off the switch tabs once you're into the mech.