Airsoft Canada - View Single Post - AEG REVIEW

Splashx · May 23rd, 2012, 14:20

1. INTRODUCTION
Hi folks, I'll introduce myself. I've been playing airsoft for 5 years+ and I owned some different AEGs : Brand new Well G3SAS (2007), Used TM G3 sg-1 (200, Brand new Jing gong M16 (2009), Used King arms M4 (2010 to 2011), Brand new (2) VFC Scar L (2011 to 2012), used ICS M4 (2012). I also used to be a Gundoc at games and repaired/improved my buddy's aegs.

Here's my review (to be continued) of the china made Javelin M4 RIS EBB, which can be bought in-country @ 245$ (225$ for the standard non-RIS Javelin M4A1 EBB). It is also available in CQB config.

(Pictures will be added later)

2. BRIEF OVERVIEW
400-ish fps out of the box
Electric blowback
Metal body
Metal RIS
Front wired (mini tamiya)
250 rounds metal hi-cap (grey-ish)
No battery/charger included
Recommended battery : 9.6v mini/7.4v lipo
Made in China by Javelin Airsoft works
Close competitors in the same price range: Classic Army Sport Line LWRC M6, WE-tech M4 AEG

3. EXTERNAL FEATURES

Main body
Everything that has to be metal is indeed metal. The upper and lower metal body quality is on par with other brands in the same price-tag (pot metal). It is feeling just like my last ICS M4. The trademarks aren’t engraved, it is much like a “tattoo” decal :P (not painted). I like the ergonomical pistol grip, which is made from strong texturized plastic (improvement over the well used M4 original pistol grip). KAC trigger guard is giving larger access to trigger when you wear gloves (as I do). The working bolt release is used to lock the fake bolt in place and release it when you adjust the hop-up. I won’t use it much because it can wear out easily (see internal features).

Sights
Usual metal front “triangle” sight. CQB block screw type removable fixed rear sight

Outer barrel
Standard metal one piece outer barrel. No trades on it. A black metal flash hider is provided to swap the blaze orange plastic "US regulated" flash hider. However, no hex screw is available to retain the flash hider in place so it should be tightened right.

RIS
Average quality 2 piece metal RIS. It is a little "fatter" than other regular RIS found on the market (also based on a China-made metal RIS I owned few years back). Which is great because it's easier to fit nunchuck (tested), minis or nunchuck lipos (tested) inside. No need of a battery box when you use those type of batteries. Nice "position number tags” (if it's called so) deep white engravings on the rails. NO wobble at all on the RIS. A “reel steel” like delta ring is installed, so it could be the reason why it’s so tight.

Rear stock
An usual multi-position stock with some added options : metal utility rail on right side ( no use for me ) and battery compartment to store 2 CR123 inside the stock ( also no use for me ). There’s a small play (up and down) on the rear stock, but it’s easily corrected by adding one length of electrical tape inside the upper part of the stock. There’s also an usual small play (from front to rear) when the stock is locked to a position, but it won’t move to another position when locked even if force is applied (unlike my VFC Scar's and my 2009 Jing Gong).

4. INTERNAL FEATURES

Every mechbox screws is loose...? I will put some lock-tite and thighten em enough.
Pneumatic components
The pneumatic combo (piston head/cylinder head/nozzle) offers a great air seal with no noticable air leak when moving the piston forward and blocking the nozzle. The metal nozzle has an internal o-ring which is great. Vented POM piston head, plastic cylinder head. The cylinder has no port??? There should be a ported cylinder due to the lenght of the inner barrel. BBs are likely to exit the barrel before the piston head would bang on the cylinder head (no resistance on remaining travel of the piston). So excess stress on the mechbox. Average quality piston. It has the second tooth removed and the AOE appears to be correct.

Mechanical parts
I'm concerned about how the gears are made. Visually, they look similar (poor) as my old jing gong. It would be a good Idea to swap them for long term durability. They are absolutely POORLY SHIMMED. I now found out why the pinion gear (motor's) show signs of use only after 2 low cap mags

The 7mm bushings are PLASTIC. For durability purpose, you HAVE to buy a set of 7mm metal bushings or bearing-bushings. Your gun will thank you for that. I'll keep those bushings to see how log they will last. The motor appears to be a little weak. There's a big difference (when turning the pinion by hand, much less magnet resistance) with a VFC stock EG1300, and pretty far from a Guarder ultimate torque. But apparently it does his job. The anti-reversal latch is proprietary (don't know why?). A spring is pushing it on the bevel gear. Not much grease on the gears (not enough).

Proprietary parts
Unfortunately, there's many proprietary parts in there as : nozzle,cylinder head, tappet plate, selector plate, hop-up, the mechbox shell itself and the latch. For example, if you want to change the cylinder head for a metal one, you'll need to also change the nozzle (non-compatible with aftermarket cylinder head) and the hop-up (made to fit the special nozzle). However, they appears to be well made. It will be easier to change the complete mechbox to an aftermarket if something break ( I haven't tried if other brands of mechbox will fit in the metal body ).

5. ”ON THE FIELD” REVIEW
(to be continued)

6. REVIEWS FROM OTHERS
Javelin Airsoft Works M4 CQB Review - YouTube

Javelin Airsoft Works M4A1 Internal Review - YouTube

The Skirmish Report (Javelin M4) - YouTube

7. CONCLUSION
(to be continued)

May 23rd, 2012, 14:20	#1
Splashx Trader rating Join Date: May 2007 Location: Near Quebec city	AEG REVIEW - Javelin M4A1 RIS EBB 1. INTRODUCTION Hi folks, I'll introduce myself. I've been playing airsoft for 5 years+ and I owned some different AEGs : Brand new Well G3SAS (2007), Used TM G3 sg-1 (200, Brand new Jing gong M16 (2009), Used King arms M4 (2010 to 2011), Brand new (2) VFC Scar L (2011 to 2012), used ICS M4 (2012). I also used to be a Gundoc at games and repaired/improved my buddy's aegs. Here's my review (to be continued) of the china made Javelin M4 RIS EBB, which can be bought in-country @ 245$ (225$ for the standard non-RIS Javelin M4A1 EBB). It is also available in CQB config. (Pictures will be added later) 2. BRIEF OVERVIEW 400-ish fps out of the box Electric blowback Metal body Metal RIS Front wired (mini tamiya) 250 rounds metal hi-cap (grey-ish) No battery/charger included Recommended battery : 9.6v mini/7.4v lipo Made in China by Javelin Airsoft works Close competitors in the same price range: Classic Army Sport Line LWRC M6, WE-tech M4 AEG 3. EXTERNAL FEATURES Main body Everything that has to be metal is indeed metal. The upper and lower metal body quality is on par with other brands in the same price-tag (pot metal). It is feeling just like my last ICS M4. The trademarks aren’t engraved, it is much like a “tattoo” decal :P (not painted). I like the ergonomical pistol grip, which is made from strong texturized plastic (improvement over the well used M4 original pistol grip). KAC trigger guard is giving larger access to trigger when you wear gloves (as I do). The working bolt release is used to lock the fake bolt in place and release it when you adjust the hop-up. I won’t use it much because it can wear out easily (see internal features). Sights Usual metal front “triangle” sight. CQB block screw type removable fixed rear sight Outer barrel Standard metal one piece outer barrel. No trades on it. A black metal flash hider is provided to swap the blaze orange plastic "US regulated" flash hider. However, no hex screw is available to retain the flash hider in place so it should be tightened right. RIS Average quality 2 piece metal RIS. It is a little "fatter" than other regular RIS found on the market (also based on a China-made metal RIS I owned few years back). Which is great because it's easier to fit nunchuck (tested), minis or nunchuck lipos (tested) inside. No need of a battery box when you use those type of batteries. Nice "position number tags” (if it's called so) deep white engravings on the rails. NO wobble at all on the RIS. A “reel steel” like delta ring is installed, so it could be the reason why it’s so tight. Rear stock An usual multi-position stock with some added options : metal utility rail on right side ( no use for me ) and battery compartment to store 2 CR123 inside the stock ( also no use for me ). There’s a small play (up and down) on the rear stock, but it’s easily corrected by adding one length of electrical tape inside the upper part of the stock. There’s also an usual small play (from front to rear) when the stock is locked to a position, but it won’t move to another position when locked even if force is applied (unlike my VFC Scar's and my 2009 Jing Gong). 4. INTERNAL FEATURES Every mechbox screws is loose...? I will put some lock-tite and thighten em enough. Pneumatic components The pneumatic combo (piston head/cylinder head/nozzle) offers a great air seal with no noticable air leak when moving the piston forward and blocking the nozzle. The metal nozzle has an internal o-ring which is great. Vented POM piston head, plastic cylinder head. The cylinder has no port??? There should be a ported cylinder due to the lenght of the inner barrel. BBs are likely to exit the barrel before the piston head would bang on the cylinder head (no resistance on remaining travel of the piston). So excess stress on the mechbox. Average quality piston. It has the second tooth removed and the AOE appears to be correct. Mechanical parts I'm concerned about how the gears are made. Visually, they look similar (poor) as my old jing gong. It would be a good Idea to swap them for long term durability. They are absolutely POORLY SHIMMED. I now found out why the pinion gear (motor's) show signs of use only after 2 low cap mags The 7mm bushings are PLASTIC. For durability purpose, you HAVE to buy a set of 7mm metal bushings or bearing-bushings. Your gun will thank you for that. I'll keep those bushings to see how log they will last. The motor appears to be a little weak. There's a big difference (when turning the pinion by hand, much less magnet resistance) with a VFC stock EG1300, and pretty far from a Guarder ultimate torque. But apparently it does his job. The anti-reversal latch is proprietary (don't know why?). A spring is pushing it on the bevel gear. Not much grease on the gears (not enough). Proprietary parts Unfortunately, there's many proprietary parts in there as : nozzle,cylinder head, tappet plate, selector plate, hop-up, the mechbox shell itself and the latch. For example, if you want to change the cylinder head for a metal one, you'll need to also change the nozzle (non-compatible with aftermarket cylinder head) and the hop-up (made to fit the special nozzle). However, they appears to be well made. It will be easier to change the complete mechbox to an aftermarket if something break ( I haven't tried if other brands of mechbox will fit in the metal body ). 5. ”ON THE FIELD” REVIEW (to be continued) 6. REVIEWS FROM OTHERS Javelin Airsoft Works M4 CQB Review - YouTube Javelin Airsoft Works M4A1 Internal Review - YouTube The Skirmish Report (Javelin M4) - YouTube 7. CONCLUSION (to be continued) Last edited by Splashx; May 23rd, 2012 at 18:37..