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Old March 18th, 2011, 12:03   #62
DoctorBadVibez
 
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Scarborough, Unionville, Stouffville and on a Benetti
Quote:
Originally Posted by IRONSIGHT View Post
I'm wondering if anyone may have any advice. Mine is installed in a Ca33 stock internals, Guarder infinite tork up motor, M130 spring. I've used an 11.1v/1600mah 20c and a 7.4v/2150mah 20c and it does the same thing with both batteries. It seems to be overspinning and then winding back like a regular gear box with no anti reversal latch, and then I get the 2 beeps. It does this in full & semi although it usually starts giving 2 rnd bursts in semi. Any ideas? It almost seems like there is no active breaking?
The "C" in 20C is your discharge rate. Lets cover the basics first: the lipos rebranded by the suppliers and supposed "manufacturers" do not indicate if this is your continuous rate or if its your burst C rate. Burst rate in this case does not mean your ROF, it means the most powerful rate your battery will dump out power. Due to the fact that this is not evident on the batteries (hence no way to tell even with my background in RC lipos), there is a toss up between what lipo battery you ACTUALLY have.

At 11.1v a 1600 mah 20C lipo battery is putting out 3200 mah at full charge

At 7.4v your 2150 mah 20C lipo battery is putting out 4300 mah at full charge

Think of the "20C" bit on your battery designation as how far you can open up the faucet to fill a glass of water (aka the discharge rate), at 20C you're already near full blast (the cup runneth over) as lipo batteries were NEVER designed to work on anything without an electronic speed control (a full functioning version of any of the ASCU and PTW, all these mosfet based systems are effectively only half an Electronic Speed Control device).

Try a 15C 7.4 volt battery OR if you don't need a lipo, switch over to a PROPER 8.4v NIMH pack from your local hobby store. You can also try a 12C lipo battery from Frank. Your gearbox is the equivalent of a differential with no clutch and a motor connected to it, now you have an electronic brake on it. You want the very best so if you go and do get an NIMH pack, make sure its a quality pack that says it has MATCHED cells. As a matter of fact, I HAVE helped someone overcome this issue, he now runs an 8.4v NIMH battery despite the size, and it works perfectly.

Lipo fun tidbit:

IF you see that your lipo battery is kaputski after 50 or so charges AND you've taken REALLY good care of it (as in don't charge over 1 amp, no gouges on the pack itself, etc etc), chances are you've got a B rated pack, this is highly undesirable as B rated lipo packs are to be used with caution and not expected to last long (50-70 charge cycles max) due to high levels of resistance during the pack build.
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