Trigger arcing?
 

Greetings again gents,

Just throwing up a brainstorm/idea as to something I've noticed with 2 of my guns and just looking for some input from some outside sources. I've noticed that my one m4 would not shoot on semi (and would shoot full-auto) unless I pulled the trigger pretty hard and let it release fully and repeated the process for it. With my newer m4, it didn't do that until I ran it on an 11.1 lipo for a bit, and I've slowly noticed the same trigger problem accumulating, but not to the same extent since the trigger on the newer m4 requires a lot less pull. So I guess the question I am throwing out there, does anybody know of trigger contacts arcing because of higher strain lipos causing this kind of behavior?

If this is the case I am not going to be looking at replacing contacts but rather a mosfet that is going to completely bypass the problems with the semi auto shooting all funky as is. If nobody has had an relation to anything similar to this I'd just look at replacing the contacts as they go and just sort of deal with it.

Thanks for your time!

I'm guessing you didnt research lipos to much before jumping in?

Pretty much everyone recommends a Mosfet anyway, espexially if going to Lipo. And definetly if you plan to use 11 volt lipo.

There are also 2 dozen computers out for your aeg which do this and more. including burst fire etc.

Just google airsoft mosfet.

I fully understand what a lipo is and how it works, I've had no mechanical issues without a mosfet EXCEPT the 'symptom' for a lack of a better word, that I described, being the trigger pull on semi has to be a strong pull and not just a simple tap like I'd want.

EDIT:
I updated the issue, as I left out the part that kind of confused me.

Well, you shouldn't use any battery above 8.4v without a MOSFET switch.
And you REALLY shouldn't use any LiPo's without MOSFET switches and a some sort of fuse.
Most airsoft guns are very analog, like early 1900's throw switch evil scientist analog.
Anything arcs in there, or your motor's armature gets bent, or the pinion gear chews through a wire and shorts the mechbox, your LiPo turns into a hot potato lol

Read the stickied LiPo thread for more info. A lot of it is info on the batteries themselves, but there's also a lot of airsoft gun specific info that would be very helpful.

On a somewhat separate note, at the expense of derailing this convo temporarily, do they make MOSFETs for V1 gearboxes?

And if you have a fuse, do you need to have a MOSFET?

Again, apologies for the derail.

Mosfets fit ANYTHING.

It's just if you can fit it inside and how you wire it up.

Ah. Thanks. I will proceed to Google how to wire one of these MOSFETs you speak of. :p

MOSFETs fit in any gun that have room for them, and a fuse only protects from over current draw, or shorting.
If you get over current draw on a LiPo, it will swell, and may go poof.

Take the gun apart and sand off the carbon if you're looking for a short term solution

It should also be mentioned an alarm is pretty much a must. I wont always use one when I know my guns fully charged. But it's better than hurting the battery

It's very simple, get a basic mosfet for every AEG you own. It's a small investment but will save you a lot more money in the long run. Like TC said, if you're gonna run lipo, a mosfet is a must. You can get away without one on a 9.6v nicad or nimh, but on low fps (sub 350). You can find basic mosfet under $20 for a cheap one, or a bit more for a quality one. If you want fancy, get a computer controlled one with multiple firing modes.

Problem with Lipos and arcing is not carbon but electrical corrosion. The arcs eat away at the metal contacts much in a way a welder melts metal. The contacts gets shorter and shorter with each arc. You'll get a season out of the contacts before you need to replace it. Its usually the contact thats on the right of the trigger that corrodes. You only need a Mosfet if you want to make your gun reliable. What I did was to add mass to the contact by adding solder, this allows the contacts to absorb the heat of the arc better and almost stops the corrosion.