Trigger help TM Hi-Capa 5.1
 

Howdy mates,

I purchased a TM Hi-Capa 5.1 2-3 weeks ago,
the mag never worked properly to begin with and the plastic slide cracked after a week. (I returned it to the retailer thats currently having a look at it.)

Being the total flaming noob I am, I came to the realization it probably needs some upgrading (if I get an replacement that is) to hold together if I get the crazy notion of using it.
Thus I have two questions for you expert mates here,
Would a TM 5.1 hold together for usage if I upgrade some internals & metal slide?
(The idea I had was to see if I could practice some IPSC if I got an airsoft)

And looking at parts I would like to install this kind of trigger,
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/airsoft-s...-type-5-1.html

BUT - It clearly needs a corresponding part to puzzle together with that I seem unable to locate. Where do I purchase the "inner" part of the trigger?

You opinions and help to locate the lacking trigger part would be greatly appreciated!

/Trixshooter

You can buy the inner puzzle from the same site you just linked.
Just take a closer look.

Well there it was, just right in front of my eyes... *shame*
It did not poop up because I never looked at the sold out items...

Thanks for sorting me out Sequential!

You're welcome :)

Weird that your slide cracked... Used mine all season stock w/o problem...

Not forget, sending the rear sight flying straight hit my beautiful face!
Everybody adviced me TM 5.1 is the xxxt...

But I had almost 7-800 bb's through it, is this excessive?
I don't have a clue how many bb's you IPSC/SteelChallengers practice through yours stock/upgraded TM's?

The stock TM slide will crack if you use propane.
I have had mine crack long time ago, I've replaced all my guns with full metal parts/externals. :kill:
Here's my boring 4.3 with a Creation replacement metal slide and inner barrel. This is my skirmish gun. It's gone through probably close to thousand rounds.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7433/1...482d0364_o.jpg

I have another 5.1 which is undergoing surgery, full Airsoft Surgeon build. I will do a write up on it sometime later this year when the final pieces of gold arrive.

The stock Marui slide was meant for duster, so propane may cause premature wear or cracks on the slide. If you want to do ipsc, it really depends on what you are trying to achieve (ie. fast cycling? High rof? Less recoil for fast acquisition of targets? Accuracy?) all of these will affect the internals you install.

Some ipsc players I know use plastic slides and short stroking to achieve insane cycling rates. Other like to use metal slides with enhance air nozzles and light weight bbu and stiffer hammer springs, and adjustable triggers to decrease trigger pull. So the hicapa platform has many upgrades, it all depends on what you want to achieve.

Hope this helps.

Okidoki, here comes the details,
I want metal slide since my plastic lasted 2 weeks.

It should cycle fast

I also appreciate snappy locktime

Gas efficiant is a preferred bonus

And most of all I want a reliable workhorse that I can practice with (not constantly repair when most needed)

Recoil is not a priority, probably only good if it has recoil as my aim is to practice my IRL shooting using this as an replacement when arctic climate prevents outdoors practice.

So what is your advice based on this premise?

(I have received some upgrades already, but if you have better expert solutions it is never to late to change to reach enlightenment.)

/Trix

If you want you gun to cycle fast, your slide assembly should be as light as possible, plastic is the fastest since its lighter than metal. Alternatively, if you want a metal slide, get one that is ported, and lightest, and a feather weight BBU by airsoft surgeon. You can also add buffers/washers or second stage recoil spring for snappier recoil and higher ROF, but if you add too many buffers, your gun will not lock when your magazine is empty.

If you want accuracy, get either the TK twist or PDI 6.01 with firefly, 9ball, or A+ reaps hop up rubber.

If you want good gas efficiency, ensure that the seal between the air nozzle/gas route is tight, air nozzles/piston head is tight, and the hop up chamber/rubber is tight. You can use 9ball gas route on your magazines for a better seal. However, I would suggest you assess the seal on your current setup and see if it is required before replacing parts immediately.

You can also get steel hammer, hammer strut, sear, disconnector and valve knocker to increase durability. There are many brands that make steel internals, a lot of them come out from the same factory.

Dont forget that getting upgrade parts is only one equation, what is equally important is learning how to put it together and ensuring that each part fits.

If your situation (and with what you are looking for), I would go with a stock TM slide.

It should last a LOT longer than 2 weeks. Then again 900 rnds in a pistol in 2 weeks is a bit insane.

I ran my 5.1 stock until I got a crazy deal for a complete creation slide kit.
I gave my plastic slide to a friend that his was heavily worn (but still working perfect, just looked like shit), and I sold the pistol because I was regretting the snappy TM slide.

Now I built a new IPSC set on a WE Dragon slide, and this thing is CRAZY fast. Plus crazy accurate with a 7" barrel and frame, so the sights are easier to align.

Then I'll most definitely wont spill I average +2k rounds/weekly the last 15 years in my powder powered revolvers/pistols ;)
(The thought here was to save some dough and able to practice more without the drive to the range and the minus 37 degrees outdoors)

I appreciate your expert opinion suggestions very much
(as I am a flaming noob when it comes to airsoft)

The things I received and doesnt work whatsoever are following items

airsoft surgeon/gun bro's toblerone ported/lightened slide
airsoft surgeon extreme lightened bb housing
airsoft surgeon enhanced nozzle/muzzle
airsoft surgeon mainspring
airsoft surgeon hammer spring
ra-tech bucking (reviewed as winner over nineball on youtube)
aip short-stroke-dingdong kit
aip hopup
pdi 6.01 inner barrel
shooters mag lips

I was told, saw on youtube, read on the websites - that the slide is an drop in. (A friend ordered a different brand slide "shooters design that actually fits a lot better on his TM, then my choices does my TM.)

I gunsmithed two days now, almost around the clock, and drop-in my ass (pardon the french)
It is up to 17 BB's/ mag refill
(Stock I got 62 BB's on one gas refill, and then some)

I even put up a thread writing down what I fixed,
but the TM will not work properly...
(My mate has pretty much identical problems with his slide fitting.)

What would you estimate the difference is after upgrading,
if I get +60 BB's stock TM,
how many should I expect with metal slide?

You can't put a number or predict on how many bbs your gun will shoot with a metal slide because every gun behaviors different as well as the temperature conditions. I know you posted all your upgrade parts, but we still can't determine the number of bbs your gun should fire because there are too many variables involved, unless if someone has a setup VERY similar to yours. And like I indicated, its also HOW you install the parts as well.

For instance, we can both be using the same Airsoft Surgeon Air Nozzle, but what if mine has a better seal with the piston head than yours? This alone will definitely affect the gas efficiency and number of bb's that can be shot out.

Yes, you saw on your youtube that the slide is drop in, but its only a reference, its not something that is certain. What if your slide came from a different batch? What if the guy that posted the video did some modifications but didn't or forgot to mention it?

Yes, you are shooting 17 bbs not compared to 62 bbs stock. Dont forget the metal slide is heavier than the plastic one. You need to figure out why it is less efficient and where the system is falling short, or if you have no clue, give it to a gun doc to fix. We can't tell you for sure where the issue is, but we are trying to help you to take the appropriate steps to diagnose the problem because we do not have the gun in front of us. We need to see the gun and how it is assembled to get a better idea on the issue at hand.

But for your REFERENCE only, I have a shooter design slide/frame, and upgraded all internals and I can fire a bit more than a full magazine.

First of all thanks mates for your time following the thread and sharing pointers!

I should have started with Gunsmiths is a "no go!" in my area (=Furtherst northern desolate wilderness of Sweden) so I am left only option to fix it myself.

Thanks for the reference Turok,
in that comparison - so about 40-ish BB's metal-slided, how many did yours do stock?

I need the reference to learn about what efficiency I should expect AND make an educated guess when I reached the optimum fitting and function.
Unfortunately I have no choice but fit the parts my-flamingnoobly-self :hammer:

Pherhaps I'll do some pics and share in thread if helpful? :popcorn:

/Trix

As a reference, I can shoot a full mag + 3 to 5 more bb's. I have a SD frame/SD slide, SD nozzle, AS BBU, and im using the STOCK recoil spring with washers to assist with cycling speed. Im not a big fan of using heavy springs especially on metal slide as it eats away the gas efficiency given the heaviness of the slide already. I prefer to short stroke the gun instead. As long as I can finish all the bb's in the mag with one fill of gas, I'm content.

Here is another reference for you. My friend and I worked on his race gun with plastic slide, custom modded the BBU to shut the gas earlier, short stroked it using Japanese method combined with as many washers/buffer as possible. He was able to get over 2 mags worth of bb's with one fill. The slide cycled so fast that you couldn't even see the slide cycle, and there was barely any recoil. Looked something like this, notice how the red dot barely moves:

Japanese Air Soft Race Guns - YouTube