Sniper Rifles - best choice
 

I am in the market for two sniper rifles and I need people that have own several to help me out.

I don't want to break the bank but want two good value snipers.

One is a spring powered for single shots, and the other is a AEG sniper dedicated that can still shoot semi only.

Also for each what upgrades are absolutely necessary. Thanks all.

If it's not either TM VSR-10, CA M24, or Maruzen APS2 you're probably wasting your money. A decent budget platform to start with would be a JG BAR-10 (although I do have a lot of reservations about buying this) but it's not manufactured to the tight tolerances that the TM VSR is.

As for upgrades, PSS Zero trigger, Hop up bucking, spring, Piston, teflon cylinder, Aero chamber etc. the list goes on and on but if you stick with Laylax or PDI parts you can't go wrong.

As for AEG sniper you'll be hard pressed to find one but you could get a MOSFET and program it to semi only with or without "delay" (some have option of 1 sec delay to simulate recocking the bolt). I'd say the TM PSG-1 is awesome but they'r every hard to find (they can be found but hard to find already in Canada and you'll need to get it from overseas). Other guns I'd suggest are a VFC or G&P AR setup to be "DMR"-ish rifles. ie. 20" outer barrel, free float handguard (eg. Bushmaster V-Match, JP Rifles handguard, etc.), American Defence, KAC, or LaRue Scope Mount, Short Dot (Millet DMS-1, Vortex Crossfire, Primary Arms PA14X, etc.).

Might want to start with an AEG converted to a DMR with semi-only. You'll still need to upgrade, but not as extensively as BARs.

Bolt actions can get really expensive once you add the necessary parts for reliability and accuracy.

Pick your favorite gun, then you can ask about converting it into a DMR. Some examples are ARs (M16 variants, SR25), SCAR SSR, Masada DMR, G36/SL8/SL9.

If I get one of the TM VSR-10, CA M24, or Maruzen APS2, is the barrel accurate enough? I hear mixed reviews that a 6.01 is not as consistent as a larger bore like 6.03 or larger?

I have a CA G36 and not quite happy with the poor construction and fit. A lot of stripped screws. Must be made on a Monday or Friday. So CA will not be considered.

The TM VSR-10 is tempting assuming quality is up there.

Is a 1.5X sufficient power or too much for airsoft sniping?

Theres a TM PSG-1 on the classifieds right now, I think it's modded and is selling for bout $700.

I talked to another owner that suggested a M28, but his was getting slam fire after it was cocked. Did a internet search, and read other owners had the same issue.

Hmmm, kinda unsafe flaw consider it got good reviews on everything else.

Anyone owned a M28 fixed this?

I am strongly considering the TM VSR-10, but need to weigh the upgrade costs of each one.

But the TM PSG-1 looks like a killer, gun but can it be left stock and still compete with a VSR-10 upgraded?

If you want consistency and a bolt-action that can compete, you need to upgrade the inner barrel (tightbore), hop-up, and the trigger (preferably the Laylax PSS Zero Trigger). Those 3 are the bare minimum upgrades you need for accuracy and fieldability (I've broken my stock trigger box just with casual use), everything is optional and merely helps you maintain a steady FPS. High quality BB's are a must or you risk screwing up your tightbore or hop-up rubber.

The Well / Warrior L96 is a good base platform since they're generally cheap ($150-200) and you end up replacing almost everything (important) in your bolt-action anyways. Field FPS limits generally allow snipers to have 50-100 FPS more with their bolt-action, however there is a lot of safety to consider when running hot guns so I advise you to take a sniper course (whenever available) with your stock bolt-action and upgrade it after the course when you're sure you really enjoy sniping. A decent side-arm is a MUST for any sniper.

AEG DMRs are generally not difficult to create; selector plates are easily moddable to semi-only. I'm actually in the process of a build right now using an M16-length inner barrel on an SPR outer barrel, covering the additional length with a silencer. You'll definitely want to upgrade the hop-up rubber (like bolt-actions) before anything else. A good motor and proper shimming is the key to trigger response and the ROF increase won't make much of a difference if you mod if to semi-only.

I like the TM VSR-10, but love the PSG-1.

IMO, safest way is to run a active breaking mosfet in a AEG DMR, allows for full cycle completion and allows for great trigger response when running on an 11.1v battery, and since you are only doing semi only it should be fine, all i did to my gun was change the piston to prometheus at first and it is still shooting fine

I had my Bolt Action for over 2 years now and been playing every season. Sometimes even in the cold. Before that I have many AEG built to be a DMR, from ICS to G&G and even CA. To be honest, it's easy to upgrade a rifle but getting a good feel for it takes time. I just want you to remember that. Once your confident with it, you'll out preform other with even a stock rifle.

Anyways, I currently running a Well L96 fully upgraded. Spent over $1200 on the upgrade alone. The L96 only cost me $300 new. You'll hear a lot of people saying you need a 'high' quality platform but I feel it's completely unnecessary specially if your going to gut the gun and fill it with new stuff anyways. Why bother spending that extra $100-200 on a 'fancy' brand?

Here's how I see it on mechanical aspect of airsoft.
Stock AEG > Stock BA
Stock AEG = Upgraded BA
Upgraded AEG > Upgraded BA

Reason being AEG has semi/full auto. With that said you'll be able to see the wind affecting your bb and shoot again while the condition is similar to the first shot whereas BA you'll have that 1-2 sec delay(cocking the handle) and will have to remember where your first shot land and consider the new condition you maybe facing. Condition as in natural environment.

Upgrading a AEG isn't easy either. There's more that could go wrong because of more parts. Ex: higher FPS meaning new cylinder head, new gearset, and higher voltage battery. With higher voltage battery you'll have to consider the strength of your motor. Aside from all that, you'll need a good hop up unit with good rubber if you plan on semi/full auto. This would all cost you around $700-900 depending on brands.

As for the PSG1, I've seen a friend of my trying to find aftermarket parts for that thing, and to be honest, most places don't make those stock parts. If anything were to break you'll have a hell of a time looking for replacement part. Or even a new gun in this case.

What I would recommend is, start off with a AEG. Build it a DMR. Once you feel like your ready to take on a bolt action, start by playing your AEG like a BA. Meaning don't even use semi. Take a shot. Eye off scope. Pull your charging handle. Re-scope. Fire. If you can stand that, get a cheap BA and play it stock for a couple game. If it is right for you. Find a website where you could buy everything at once. That way you'll save a lot on shipping. Also pick up a few extra micro like hopup unit o-rings/springs.

I'm sorry if you know all this and a drag to read but I wasted a lot of money to find my sweet spot and I hope you won't make as much mistake as I did.

Would it not be better to build it up from scratch and save the $300 of the base L96 considering you are replacing everything.

By the way, what left of the L96 after spending $1200?

My VSR-10 cost me $900 in total
It's more accurate at range than any AEG
It's also DEAD SILENT FROM 10 FEET AWAY, unlike AEGs

Bolt action rifles are inherently more accurate than AEG's, that's why we use them

You can't build a gun from nothing. You need a base gun to start with, if only for the body, all the screws and springs, etc.

Thanks for all the feedback.

It kinda looks like a AEG DMR would be the only choice for now.

Reason being is the crazy cost of building up a decent BA.

The nice thing about a DMR is a quick follow up shot on windy days. Yeah, I won't be as accurate as a BA, but if the first shot is missed, I have many more after that quickly to hit the target.

On the PDI site, they actually sell the receiver and outer barrel too. Then you'll just need to find a stock with parts but I estimate that to cost more than a new clone L96. Unless your planning on beating the receiver a clone will do.

Forgot to mention, a good scope goes a long way. Perpare to spend $80-120 on that and a set of scope rings. If your doing an M16 you may need a set of offset scope ring because of the long eye releif. That'll be $50-80 for real steal at bass pro or $40-70 on eBay with shipping.

As far as the AEG goes, what about an M14 with the fire selector disabled/removed or epoxied/glued in place? Barrel length is 22" - 500mm inner barrel length. M14 requires M14 specific replacement parts for that inner barrel, though.

I ready plan on spend up to $150 for a decent scope and been to bass pro to look at them. Is 1.5X too much or enough for airsoft sniper?

I am going MOSFET so semi will be programmed only.

For scopes I only ever used (have two) 3-9x40mm scopes and high mount rings (on a bolt action, if you wear PB goggles, they push up out of the way while trying to get your eye relief sorted out, luckily I never wore PB goggles), and 99% of the time my scope was set at 4-5x, always worked perfect for me. 3x gives a wider FOV, good for scanning a larger area, and 9x draws you in close to ID someone hiding in bushes. When going for the shot, I'd dial it back up to 4-5x.

1.5x really is only good when mounting it on an M14 since the scope sits farther away from your eye, gives you a good eye relief.

personal preference, I'd say 1.5x isn't enough for engaging at 240ft though
I use a 3x, it's what I'm used to, it gives me a peripheral view that I'm comfortable with, but my typical engagement range is 80-160ft
Just get a 2-6x scope, and find what's best for you
My scope was $26 when I first got it, and it's a tasco so it's lifetime warranty. Cheap scopes aren't an issue for airsoft, but I do suggest getting a mil-dot reticle

3-9x40 scopes are more available and various price ranges, best overall one to get due to the flexibility. I never shoot with it higher than 6x, I need to track my round. And never found much use for the mil-dots outside of extra aiming points, one scope of mine has a reticle more like a crossbow type, parts of the reticle are dashes like the mildots. I'd use on occasion, but over the years even if I had a dot I'd do fine with just that, I found most of my shots I'd have to go 'offline' with the reticle and place the center in a space above and to the side of the target.

M14 is good but taking it apart to fix/replace/upgrade is a pain. If you think G36 is tough, wait till you do M14. You'll also run into problems like if you break charging handle, missing spring to be quite tough to find replacement parts. Lucky for you a clone M14 range from $250-350 used.

I read somewhere awhile back saying that barrel length only helps with grouping. Range and consistency is still greatly rely on quality of BB and a well dial, good quality hop up. Not a 100% sure on this because I ran consistency over range for all my gun. My L96 can do crack/hole shot up to 150feet but find my max range to be around 250feet. When I ran an AEG my max range was 200feet and crack/hole shot to be around 100feet. You may think that's stupid/bad for an AEG because you can spray 50 rounds with a stock and get those shots but my goal is be most effective(aka not spring and pray) I can be.

As for scope, I never go more than 4X. Not even scouting because I find it really mess with my vision or to stay sharp. I find myself feeling 'I need to go max zoom to get the perfect shot' but really not that true. Your naked eyes should pick up on most movement up to 300 meter fairly easily and that's a better scouting tools than with your scope/binocular. I use it to confirm friends or foes.

Just to make sure you understand the numbers in describing scopes: example:
3-12X40mm.
3-12 is magnification
40mm is the size of the picture

A mil-dot helps with finding your shots but if you using semi it won't really matter because you won't have take your eyes off your target to adjust your shot.

No, it is a 3-12 magnification, but 40mm describes the objective lens.

The size of the picture is the field of view, which has little to do with the objective lens.

Both the field of view and eye relief depend heavily on the way the lenses are stacked internally inside of the scope. Which is dependant on many things, including the objective lens and the magnification (as they determine the interior layout of the lenses), but different 40mm lensed scopes will have different fields of view and eye relief, sometimes the differences are very drastic.

Dimitri

I have decided on the Leapers 3x12x44mm scope.

Having trouble trying to find a dealer that sells and stocks Leapers scopes in Toronto area.

Well got the CA M24 and have to say, nice. Now to start doing the necessary upgrades after I break it in.

Decided not to get a L96 since the cost to upgrade is crazy.

I am trying to get another sniper, a TM VSR-10 to add to my collection but can't find it. Anyone knows send me a PM please.

Got the CA M24 and now the VSR10 is the challenge.

Got a few quotes from some dealers for a TM VSR10 and the pricing is ranging from $525 up to $600. That is crazy! I might as well get the VFC 338 and pay the extra for a much more beautiful sniper.

Any other 100% VSR10 out there in Canada?

I have using my CA M24 for a while now and decided to upgrade it. Only to be disappointed to find out that the hop up unit is not APS compatible. I don't like theM24 set screw access under the nozzle.

Can the hop up be modified to use an APS version?

I was also told I should have bought a Maruzen APS which is totally 100% APS2