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Thanks for the quick response guys, two more questions.
Polycarbonate vs metal bodies; are the metal ones that much better? & Any thoughts/comments about Javelin metal AEG? Thanks |
Metal is cooler but plastic is just fine for a first gun.
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usually requires an allen key to take it off small allen screw usually on the new guns for the flash hider
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sorry by bad, I didnt look to see if he was age verified yet.
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I'm not a huge fan of G&G guns. Not because they're terrible guns per se, I just happen to believe there is better out there for a similar price. As for M4 vs. MP5, I highly suggest you go hold and handle both guns first. They're of similar length but feel very different and have different layouts. Personally, I'm not a fan of how M4s feel but I rather like MP5s. Quote:
Most AEGs can also be upgraded to shoot to similar levels.. I've seen MP5SD's that are absolute precision beam cannons effective to 200' or more. From any decent stock AEG you can reasonably expect engagement distances of 80'-150' (dependent on conditions and ammo selection, and a few other factors). Some AEGs you can expect a little more. Quote:
The other thing to consider is that you're usually only looking at another $100 or so for a metal bodied gun over it's plastic bodied sibling... later upgrading said sibling is probably going to cost you $200+ for the body plus a whole headache of fitment issues. I'm very much of the opinion that you should you buy the best AEG you can afford first (leaving room in your budget for the other accessories you need, like mags, battery, charger, boots and eye protection, etc.). Get lower quality guns later when you have an AEG you KNOW will work. Just my $0.02 |
Yeah as for looks I prefer the MP5 if I go for the vibe of the MP5 , I don't know if you can tell me since im not AV but wich brand has some nice MP5 , I only saw G&G ones.
Thanks for the replies everyone it helps |
The Umarex ones are G&G internals with full trades externals.
CA makes MP5's. VFC makes a GBBR one. ICS Mp5's are great. TM MP5s can be found are the best bet for internals IMHO. |
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Are A&K , KWA and ARES well rated ???
like the KWA / ARES G36C or A&K SR25K. |
It really depends what you're looking for. If I had enough money, I'd just get something I thought looked cool, throw it at a gun doc and let him deal with it. Unfortunately I don't, so I try to be as cheap as possible. So for me, airsoft and gun doctoring is one and the same. Maintenance and repair is inevitable so don't cheap out on guns! The cheaper brands will cost you the same or more than a nicer brand in the long run.
Because I do everything myself, I want it to be as hassle free as possible. That why I would only recommend two guns: TM p90 or G&G fn2000. Open the back, unscrew two screws and the mech box pops out! Shimming a version 6 is really easy because of the motor cage, you can easily get the motor alignment perfect! P90 is compact and light even with a silencer. Only downside is the magazine! They're hard to find and typically not as cheap as m4 mags. Also getting pouches for them at a reasonable price is a bitch. I've never used an FN2000 so I technically shouldn't be recommending it but I've read great things about it and it's easy to maintain! Fn2000 takes m4 mags so that's a big plus! Regardless of what you choose, I highly recommend staying with a gun that has TM compatible parts. When something breaks down, you'll have a much easier time finding something within your budget! |
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IMHO the best G36 to pick up is the Classic Army version. Body is excellent and internals are fine. The G36 is easy to disassemble and the Version 3 mechbox is robust and fairly easy to work on. |
I have found a G&G FN2000+ACOG for 454$ at Torontoairsoft.ca is the price good?
As for G36C for now I can only see the KWA one since im not AV yet. For the SR25 from A&K? Other question is can you add a scope to a M4 that doesnt have a rail? |
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Yeah i meant on the carry handle like the first version of the M4 without the RIS system along the barrel.
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